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Gluing PETG

Discussion in '3D Printing' started by srjacob, Sep 20, 2020.

  1. srjacob

    srjacob Senior Member

    Thought somebody might be interested.

    I found some glues that seem to work really well (and are really strong) for gluing PETG to other materials and PETG to itself. I have been gluing PETG to steel.

    For a thin liquid crazy-glue-fast setting:
    Loctite 435
    Loctite SF770 activator-You need to use this for PETG because it is a low-energy plastic.

    You don't need much of this stuff. A small bottle will last forever
    MCD Industrial has this.

    For epoxy fans, I use JB Weld Plastic Bonder. You have to hold the parts together for about 30 minutes before it sets up. I get it at Home Depot. To mix the epoxy, I use a Q-tip with one end cut off and use an old piece of scrap paper to mix it on. Q-tips are cheap, especially at the big box stores.

    I only print PETG now. Most of the parts I print have a functional use and PETG is strong and easy to print. I use PETG from Microcenter. Inexpensive and seems decent.
     
  2. Crash1211

    Crash1211 New Member

    Question do you have a all metal hot end or one with PTFE? If a PTFE what temps do you print at? I'm a little hesitant to print with PETG because of the higher temperatures needed plus afraid of it welding to the bed and chipping it when removing, but I guess I can go back to painters tape for that or glue stick. I was thinking of swapping out my hot end for a all metal one and trying it, but if I don't need to that would be great.
     
  3. srjacob

    srjacob Senior Member

    I have a Prusa I3MK3/S and am using their stock hot end (which probably has a PTFE tube). I am using their magnetic PEI textured bed, and have no problems with the PETG sticking. When the bed cools, the parts pop off. You definitely need the heated bed for PETG, but it's fairly easy to print. WIth a smooth PEI sheet, the PETG sticks too much. I supposed tuning the slicing parameters might solve that, or spacing the print head heigher above the bed would help also.

    I will be getting an old Flashforge Creator clone to have a heated bed so I can print PETG on it. I can print PETG on it now without the heated bed, but long parts tend to warp a bit.

    BTW, On the GLUE, with some experimentation, you DON'T NEED the SF770 activator. The Loctite 435 works really well on it's own.
     

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